
Chatterbox Falls is located at the end of a timeless fjord known as Princess Louisa Inlet in British Columbia. Its waters cascade from steep cliffs to make a final 80 foot plunge into seawater just beyond the docks in this photo. The entrance to the inlet is guarded by insanely dizzying tidal rapids that yield passage to boats only for 15-20 minutes a few times each day as the surging tidal waters hesitate while changing direction of flow.
We visited this remote spot three times and our craft, the Fairy Boat, can be seen at the right edge of the photo. It is a magical place of beauty and serenity, but can also be haunting or even terrifying when clouds hide the mountains and close in with a sense of foreboding. It is not a place to have an emergency or accident since the only access is by boat or seaplane when weather and tides allow.
M. Wylie Blanchet captured the spectrum of feelings that occupy this chasm in her book the Curve of Time. “That waterfall can laugh and talk, sing and lull you to sleep. But it can also moan and sob, fill you with awful apprehensions of you don’t know what–all depending on your mood.
Remote, isolated, beautiful, enchanting, and full of its own dangers and rewards; I would return in a heartbeat given the opportunity.
For an account of our first trip there in a rented, 32-foot Bayliner the “Bliss,” see: https://eskildoodle.com/to-princess-louisa/